These are in no particular order.
What is my book worth? #
There are two ways to estimate a book’s value. Keep in mind prices fluctuate based on demand.
The first is to look at sales records using sites like Rare Book Hub and WorthPoint. These are subscription services and cost hundreds of dollars a year, but they’re great sources for historical sales data. You can look at sold listings on eBay as well, though you have to be a seller and use Terapeak if you want to see sales history going back two years.
For asking prices, check sites like vialibri.net, Biblio, Abebooks, and eBay. Vialibri aggregates results from other sites but does miss listings sometimes, so it’s always good to check the other sites as well. You can also use Google. Sometimes listings on sellers’ sites don’t show up on the other marketplaces, especially if sellers choose not to list them there.
Keep in mind these are asking prices and don’t necessarily reflect what the book actually sells for. Condition also matters. A book in poor condition is going to be worth less than the same book in fine condition. Signatures and inscriptions by the author or someone famous will also add to the value. When comparing your copy to those listed online, pay close attention to the edition, condition, provenance, etc. to make sure you’re doing an apples-to-apples comparison.
Finally, Any estimate provided online does not constitute an appraisal and might not be accurate. It is impossible to determine a book’s value without physically examining the book. Pictures are great for obvious flaws, but there might be small defects or missing pages, plates, etc. that pictures don’t capture. In fact, when determining value, a reputable dealer will consult reference books to match collation to a known copy to ensure completeness. Take any estimates provided online with a grain of salt.
2. What is the difference between mold and foxing? #
I found some good sources for identifying mold, how to prevent it, and how to deal with it. Mold and foxing are not mutually exclusive, and it’s possible to have both. Also, foxing may be indicative of poor storage or improper care.
https://www.abaa.org/glossary/entry/foxing
https://www.biblio.com/book_collecting_terminology/Foxed-69.html
https://www.biblio.com/book-collecting/care-preservation/prevent-remove-mold-mildew/
https://www.ala.org/alcts/preservationweek/advice/moldybooks
3. How do I store books?
In most cases, you can simply keep them upright on a shelf away from direct sunlight. Keep the temperature and humidity as stable as possible. If the room is too humid, there’s the risk of mold. If the room is too dry, the pages can become brittle, and leather bindings can crack. As a general rule, if you’re comfortable in a room, then your books will be fine.
Here’s some good info on storing books.
4. Do I need gloves to handle old/rare/fragile books?
In the majority of cases, you don’t need gloves. Using gloves makes it hard to properly handle a book and can end up causing more damage by tearing pages. The best way to handle a rare book is to wash your hands and thoroughly dry them before handling the book.
There are a couple of exceptions to this rule.
Metal bindings, books with toxic elements, and photo albums are best handled using gloves.
The other exception is when dealing with red rot, which causes a powder to rub off on your hands and get everywhere. The best thing to do is wear gloves when removing the book from the shelf and opening it. After it’s opened, you can remove the gloves and turn the pages as you normally would. This prevents the powder from rubbing off on the pages and keeps the inside of the book clean.
5. Does my book contain arsenic?
See this post for more details, but here is some info on using gloves from that post:
While nitrile gloves are recommended while handling potentially toxic books, the resounding advice from experts is the same for all old books: to handle them with clean, dry hands; to wash your hands before and after use; and—because inhalation and ingestion are primary routes of entry for arsenic and chromium—to never lick them.
For more information on the history, storage, and safety recommendations for historical bookbindings containing heavy metals, refer the University of Delaware’s Poison Book Project website.
6. Where do I buy books/material for my collection?
The sites mentioned above are a great place to start. These include vialibri.net, Biblio, and Abebooks. Not all sellers will list on these sites, so it never hurts to do a Google search as well. Many sellers specialize in certain topics/areas, and many collectors prefer to buy material from a reputable seller that is knowledgeable in that particular area.
7. Is this a first edition?
First – what is an edition? That is a version of a work. When the book is modified or changed, that is another edition. But an edition can have multiple printings – the printer simply runs off another few thousand when the old printing runs out and the book is the same except for the copyright page.
When book collectors look for first editions, what they mean is a first printing of the first edition. First edition identification is usually easy, first printing identification not so much. Also, most collectors are looking for the first appearance of a title, so the first Canadian printing of a book previously published in America will probably not be as valuable, but a Canadian first printing by Canadian author Margaret Atwood is likely the first appearance and likely more valuable than the US version. This concept is called “follow the flag”, but isn’t always the case (Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde has a US first hardcover edition but UK first appearance in paperback). Note all the qualifiers. Ultimately, the first edition that is most valuable on the market is the one the book collectors are looking for.
For free online resources, Biblio provides an alphabetic guide of first printing identification by publisher – https://www.biblio.com/first-edition-identification/ which is very useful. Publishers change their practice over the years, and some are erratic in all years, so there are not many good rules of thumb or generalities to be given concisely in a forum like this. For a good print reference, First Editions: A Guide to Identification by Edward Zempel (2001) is still useful.
8. Where can I sell my books?
This greatly depends on the books in question. “Normal” books – such as Harry Potter paperbacks, Oprah book club titles, and similar popular works – can be taken to a local used bookstore and you will be probably be offered somewhere between 10 and 25% of the intended sale price, often only in store credit. These books are common and bookdealers can often load up on them for $1 or less each at a library sale or thrift store. If you have a large number of books (thousands), call ahead and perhaps someone will come out to take a look.
Selling your goods online is always an option. eBay is an obvious venue, and there are also groups on social media platforms such as Facebook and Instagram where people sell to each other. Do be careful of what you say in your listing to avoid returns.
If you think a book is very valuable or rare, try finding an ABAA bookdealer (https://www.abaa.org/booksellers) who specializes in that type of book living near you. Book dealers vary widely in their business practices. You also might contact a reputable auctioneer, such as PBA Galleries (https://www.pbagalleries.com/content2/) or Swann Galleries (https://www.swanngalleries.com/). Rare Book Hub also keeps a list of auction houses and lists their various fees https://www.rarebookhub.com/auction_houses.