Clear parts such as canopies and windscreens are easily ruined. They will fog if exposed to fumes from super glue and some other chemicals, and of course, they show fingerprints and marks easily.
What do I do with clear parts? #
Masking and placing on the model #
Clear parts can be either left off until near the end or masked and glued in place.
- The latter approach tends to make them look more like ‘part of the vehicle’.
- This really in-depth photo tutorial by u/flounderflound shows you how to mask a canopy excellently. Make sure to open the post, as there is commentary under each photo.
- You can also buy pre-cut masks by Eduard, but they can end up costing a lot. Some modellers buy clear decal film, paint it, and cut it into strips to apply over canopy frames.
- Clear parts can be affixed with PVA (woodworking) glue, which dries clear.
Using Future / Klear floor polish #
Why and how to use it #
Future fills in very small scratches in the canopy that would generally be present once the plastic is out of the moulds. Yes, it does make it clearer, and very glossy.
You can mask the canopy ater glossing it as well.
Putting it on #
- Dip the canopy after you remove it from the sprue (and you sand the edges), giving time to dry prior to painting on the frames.
- You put the future on BEFORE you mask and paint the frames.
- Place on a paper towel (being careful not to have the “glass” part of the canopy touch the paper), and leave to dry in a dust-free place.
- Drying time – At least 2-4 hours depending on humidity. While future is designed to be quickly applied, it’s best to wait overnight for a full cure.
Removal #
If you get air bubbles (avoid air bubbles) or muck it up, it’s ammonia soluble, or just soak it in future.
FAQ #
Can I then use something other than canopy glue/PVA/white glue to glue the canopy:
- Some people use Tamiya Extra Thin, but take it with care as the “capilary action” might make it flow on the part of the canopy you don’t want glue on. I’d stick with the ones mentioned above for consistent results.
Is Humbrol Maskol a good alternative to Tamiya/masking tape?
- Maskol has occasional uses but is too gooey to place exactly, and although some people can cut it, it’s rubbery so, well, it’s not easy. IT’s best used in conjunction with Tamiya tape – he thin strip method works well. Cut a series of strips about 2mm wide, and frame out the canopy. Then fill in the centre with larger pieces (or Maskol).
Is glossing the canopy worth the bother?
- Depending on the quality of the canopy. If it’s bad, then yes
Can I spray Klear through an airbrush?
- For canopies, no. First of all, there’s no reason to. Second of all, it’ll atomize it, cause it to dry in midair, and make a pebbly surface.
Will the floor polish fill in large scratches, like the type I inflicted on my canopy trying to sand the seams off?
- No. If you want to polish out the canopy seam, you must:
- Sand it, polish it with toothpaste or brasso metal polish (the liquid variety), then coat with future. The Future will take care of the final, very superficial, micro scratches. It is not designed as a filler for scratched surfaces.
Can I tint canopies with Floor polish? (Think the “smoke” colored canopies on US F-16s)
- I’ve heard some people do it, yes. I’ve never gotten it to work, but then I also don’t do it often.